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Roof Coatings

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gonewest	Roof Coatings		Lead	[-]
Posts: 17 Sep 21 09 5:31 PM	Tags : None Getting ready to redo the paint / sealant on my trailer roof. What product is my best bet?
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aircooled		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 359 Sep 21 09 9:16 PM	I think the general opinion on roof coating is don't do it. Does your roof leak?
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rustybucketofnuts		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 832 Sep 21 09 9:39 PM	If you must - use the white stuff -"snow coat" - don't ever use the silver crap - it is awful. (just my opinion, mind you) I hate both - but my husband really thinks the snow coat is a good idea. Tired of arguing with him on that point... Rusty <sigh> www.oldtincans.blogspot.com Ring the bells that still can ring Forget your perfect offering There is a crack in everything That's how the light gets in. ~Leonard Cohen
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vikx		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 4061 Sep 21 09 11:23 PM Board Administrator Contact for help	ARGH! Please don't coat your roof! Most aluminum roofs do not need to be painted with anything. Elastomeric coatings are just that: coatings, which reflect sunlight. They do not seal the trailer or protect against leaks. The instructions state: "do not use in ponding water"'; many of our little trailers have low areas that retain water from time to time. Elastomeric forms pink bubbles as it deteriorates. If your roof is leaking, it more likely to be edge trim or the vent opening(s). New putty will cure a multitude of problems. Also, most seams are folded over more than once and do not need to be "sealed". I have spent hours scraping, peeling and picking to get Snow Crap, Silver Slop, silicone, fiberglass and more off a roof. It can cause roof rot by allowing water to get in a tiny gap, then the water creeps underneath which sits and ruins the roof metal. Not only that, but any future repairs are almost impossible because you can't see where a problem originates... There are two products I do use on roofs. One is Dicor self leveling lap sealant, used around roof protrusions and the vent flange. It flows nicely and seals well. It sticks to itself, so can be touched up each fall if necessary. The second is Proflex paint on sealant IN THE CAN. This is not Proflex caulk but a more flowing clear sealant. It is very sticky to paint but stays put and is flexible for a long time. I will use it in an area I've previous cleaned as a final seal over old pieces of junk coating. I'm very glad you asked this question; very important discussion. VK PS: Roof coatings also lower the value of a vintage trailer...they scream "leaker". http://vikxtrailers1.shutterfly.com
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48 Rob		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 3451 Sep 22 09 6:53 AM Board Administrator *Contact for help*	What color/kind of sealant do you have on the roof now? Rob
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gonewest	Roof	#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 17 Sep 22 09 9:12 AM	It appears to be something that was put on when built.It has a "gritty" appearance.The roof does not leak.Each of the ribs are built with a raise.If I don't need a sealer that would be one step closer to painting.I pulled the front window out last week to reseal with roll putty found water damage ended up replacing the whole front wall. Still unable to find a tag as to the manufacter. I need all the rubber seal for it and others.Repairs to the wall are complete so I duct taped the window shut until I can get the right seals for it. My goal for this winter is to make the trailer water tight. Will work on the prettys later.
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48 Rob		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 3451 Sep 22 09 6:41 PM Board Administrator *Contact for help*	Hi Bob, It sounds like a standard "roof coating" was used. Your photos show that only a small portion of the roof was coated, and the rest was painted the body color. While I agree with the general sentiment of; don't! for trailer roof's like your's, there isn't any harm in re-coating. Standard roof coating comes in a silver color, and is a very thick oil based paint mixed usually, with fiber. To prep the surface, clean, wire brush, sand, etc, to remove any loose material and give the surface "tooth" for the new material to grip. Most folks just buy the coating, and apply, never giving thought to cleaning and prep work. This leads to separation of layers, which allows moisture between them. Still have a leak? slather even more on top...but the leak is still there... Go easy on the thickness. Roof coat was designed to protect steel roofs from rusting. On aluminum, it helps to reflect a little heat, and makes the roof "look better". Try not to slop it on around vents, and edges, as it can crack later on and allow water to seep into unseen places. Rob Edited 1 time by 48 Rob Sep 22 09 6:45 PM.
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Barry Trotman		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 5 Nov 19 09 9:25 PM	If you still plan on re-doing your entire roof I would recommend EPDM liquid rubber. From everything I've read it is said to be much more durable than the typical elastomeric roof coatings. Only one coat needed and no primer necessary. VK, I know your thoughts on roof coatings- please take it easy on me! http://www.proguardcoatings.com/index.html Edited 1 time by Barry Trotman Nov 20 09 1:02 AM.
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vikx		#8	[url]	[-]
Posts: 4061 Nov 20 09 12:36 AM Board Administrator Contact for help	Actually Barry, the Liquid Roof/liquid rubber is said to work well. It is supposed to be much better than elastomeric. I watched the techs use gallons of it for three years but do not have results yet. The only question I have on the rubber roof is if it lasts. Will being weathered for several years cause peeling or disintegration? Will it adhere to old coatings? I like the idea that Liquid Roof is "mixed" on site, being two parts. That makes me think activating it will allow for a better stick and hopefully a long life. I prefer to have no coating on a vintage roof, but some are so ugly from past layers of goop! Proflex in the can, being clear, does not make for a pretty roof, but it will stick to anything and actually "glue" remnants of old layers down. This is after much picking and peeling; getting the roof as bare as possible. Silicone is the worst-nothing will stick to it and it's impossible to get it all off. VK http://vikxtrailers1.shutterfly.com
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000lessismore000		#9	[url]	[-]
Posts: 148 Nov 20 09 7:37 AM	Elastomeric roof coatings are NOT made to stop leaks. It is made to reflect sun and extend the life of the roofing material it covers. 000lessismore000
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vikx		#10	[url]	[-]
Posts: 4061 Nov 21 09 1:03 AM Board Administrator Contact for help	Well said, Craig!!! VK http://vikxtrailers1.shutterfly.com
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flycindz		#11	[url]	[-]
Posts: 0 Dec 2 09 10:51 AM	I too have to water-proof my Westerner before she can go out in public. I believe the water damage that I found inside is coming from the seams where the roof is attached to the side walls. What is my best course of action? I was planning to take off the trim piece along the edge, clean up, and reseal. Any thoughts? There was also a fair amount of water damage around the ceiling vent, which I have eliminated all together. It was already sealed closed. Flycindz
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vikx		#12	[url]	[-]
Posts: 4061 Dec 2 09 1:22 PM Board Administrator Contact for help	You might look at your edge framing while the trim is off to check for rot. Any water damage inside almost certainly means that there's a surprise awaiting inside the walls. The edge trim should be re-installed after all repairs have been made. After you remove the trim and clean, putty tape is the material of choice to re-install. There are 2 different types; butyl and standard. Butyl is stickier but harder to work with. Both work well. You can purchase screws that "match" the old at most local hardware stores or online. I buy phillips drive for the older trailers, hex head for the 60s rigs. Once the trim is attached, I carefully set the top edge with a rubber hammer and piece of wood. The trim must squeeze the putty out and be fairly tight to the trailer. Excess is trimmed in a day or so, depending on the weather/temperature. Cold putty doesn't work easily. It is my opinion (read above) that coatings are not necessary. If the roof metal has cancer/pin holes, it should be replaced. Coatings are not designed to prevent leaks, but reflect light. The cause more damage than they cure; water creeps around underneath-you get the picture. If your roof has dips and ponding water, check your rafters for rot and repair as necessary. VK http://vikxtrailers1.shutterfly.com
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flycindz		#13	[url]	[-]
Posts: 0 Dec 3 09 9:58 PM	VK, Thanks a bunch for the information. That helps a lot! I've had it down to the aluminum inside and have already cleaned up the many "surprises" that awaited me. I may have done the entire project backwards, but I completely remodeled the inside, now I'm starting the outside. What I didn't think of is how I will determine if all the leaks are fixed (without finding out the hard way). Cindy
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vikx		#14	[url]	[-]
Posts: 4061 Dec 4 09 12:58 AM Board Administrator Contact for help	Well, I've repaired 'em backwards too...The leaks can be detected with a pressure test. It basically blows air into the trailer to create pressure. When soapy solution is sprayed around the exterior edges, lights, etc, it forms bubbles at leaky areas. Replacing the putty on the edge trim should be done first I think. Also, carefully check the old vent area patch; it can be a little lower than the rest of the roof and seep. I usually add shims on top of the rafters to raise that area before installing a vent. If you get the trailer done, so that you feel it is fairly tight, the leak pressure test will help you. At least there's not goop all over up there so that you CAN find any weak areas... Windows, doors, eyebrows and compartments often need new putty as well. I've found good putty after 50 years and dried out junk, too. Look closely at each. If there are gaps, it's a sign you will have to reputty. Hope this helps. VK http://vikxtrailers1.shutterfly.com
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falconizer62		#15	[url]	[-]
Posts: 346 Mar 23 10 12:31 AM	What about a rubber glue on style modern roof ? Anyone done this? Does it look out of place? http://www.myrideisme.com/Garage/falconizer_62
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vikx		#16	[url]	[-]
Posts: 4061 Mar 23 10 1:25 AM Board Administrator Contact for help	They are OK but do not last; 12 years tops. Very HEAVY. Construction is luann ply over the framing, then glue/epdm roofing. Edge trim is used at the edges after the rubber folds over, usually about 2" below the roof line. I think it will show from the ground. The rubber roofs I've had experience with are not leak proof. I've seen lots of damage and lots of major repairs on new rigs. EPDM is extremely sensitive to chemicals-only approved caulking can be used. (nothing with petroleum distillates) That being said, it's not the worst roof. A suggestion: see if you can visit an RV shop who is doing a repair job on one. It would show you the underlayment, the glue process, etc. Let us know if there's new methods/materials in the works! VK http://vikxtrailers1.shutterfly.com
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falconizer62		#17	[url]	[-]
Posts: 346 Mar 23 10 10:06 AM	I have gone to an RV shop and inquired about it, and the guy out laid the same process. Luan down first, and glue the rubber to that. It will cost me about $350 to do it myself. I do not know if I have any pin holes in my aluminum, there definitely are dented low spots were pooling will occur. I thought that the rubber roof would make either of these irrelevant. As far as the pooling goes, the aluminum is stretched a little and it doesn't want to pop back up and stay that way. I like the idea of the shims around the vents :-) I was also worried about the weight that a rubber roof would add, and the guy at the RV shop said that it's not that heavy...(?) If it is anything like linoleum it must weigh a ton... He did not tell me about the 2 inch foldover. He seemed to think I could fold it over an inch under the J molding. I'm just not sure if it ends up looking stupid as I have never seen a vintage trailer with a rubber roof... there might as well as any other reasons that this may not be a good idea :-)... thank you for your responses. You guys rock! peace, Kai http://www.myrideisme.com/Garage/falconizer_62
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architect5737	Applied roofing	#18	[url]	[-]
Posts: 11 Jul 16 10 7:13 PM	There are a number of manufacturers are applying roofing membranes today such as Puma. One that is now 10 yrs. old and I can highly recommend is TPO, much better than EPDM in my experience and you can buy it in several different thicknesses, thicker is more expensive and heavier and save all your scraps. It can be glued to itself if you have a puncture. It is installed with a type of contact cement and has undbelieveble wind uplift resistance which is more than a little important when towing a trailer down the road at 65mph. About the same price as EPDM. And, by the way, I just finished building and installing my Lexan twin-wall gravel guard. Sharp and darned near bullit proof, haven't photo'd it yet, but will inclose photos soon will also add in the proper department. Ron
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architect5737		#19	[url]	[-]
Posts: 11 Jul 16 10 8:54 PM	One thing I forgot. If you use EPDM It's gotta be black. Yes, I know. Heat Sink. Professional roofers don't like white because of the call backs and yes, I know, that's what the manufacturers are using. If you want white, It's got to be TPO. Caution! With TPO you have to have help. Remember what I said, It goes down with contact cement. That means when the TPO TOUCHES the metal roof, it is STUCK and your not going to pull it up. It has to be installed like plastic laminate counter tops. With P'lam they use wood slats under the p'lam and pull out the slats one at a time. TPO installs much the same way. Contact cement is applied to each surface to be glued together and left to dry-separately. If anyone is interested in applying this product let me know (here) and I will be happy to post the process. It is an excellant product. There are certain pecularities with travel trailers particularly older ones. I have discovered with my older one that they were put together with BS and bubble gum and that has to be dealt with. Ron
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Indyandy		#20	[url]	[-]
Posts: 36 Jul 16 10 10:28 PM	Ron, I am interested in this. The roof will be my next project. Please post more info and picture.
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